August Recipe

I am a lover of flowers. I’m never happier than when I am forced to wade through arching stems as they cross the ever diminishing flagstones that form our garden path. Taking Vita Sackville-West’s commandment to “cram, cram, cram, every chink and cranny” very much to heart, I squeeze as much as I possibly can into every inch of our gardening space. I read about the importance of foliage, the calm sophistication of layers of green. Inevitably, just when I think I have the maturity to commit to such a vision, I add one, maybe two more flowering plants to my plan — and suddenly I’m back, Vita crowing in my ears, as I try to wedge still more annuals between my already under-spaced perennials.

Given the premium on space, it is with great solemnity that I choose one or two vegetables to grow each year. There is something elemental about growing your own food, even when you might be lucky enough to have professional grade options at the farmer’s market.  It’s also a special joy to introduce young people to the magic of an edible garden.  Although vegetables are not strictly ornamental (I am interplanting with favorable flowering companions, of course) they can still be a marvel in the garden.  The peaked bonnet of a snap pea, the fuzzy essence of tomato leaves. But even with my tendency toward excess, I recognize that you really only need one zucchini plant. Maybe two. Three tops, but only to try a few different varieties.

Now, the unavoidable: while prolific, zucchini isn’t everyone’s favorite. If that’s you, I think this recipe could change your mind. I especially like it paired with fresh beans, which are also in season now.  The key is cooking the zucchini very briefly. It might even make you want to add another plant.   

 Fresh white bean ragout, with celery and zucchini

Adapted from a recipe by Alexa Weibel in nytimes cooking

⅔ cup chicken or vegetable stock, plus more as needed

⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil

4 stalks celery, thinly sliced on an angle, leaves reserved

2 medium zucchini (about 7 ounces each), trimmed, quartered lengthwise then cut into 1/2-inch pieces

2 scallions, thinly sliced on an angle

Kosher salt and black pepper

4 cups fresh cannellini beans, cooked; or 2 cups dried beans, soaked and cooked; or 2 (15-ounce) cans of beans, rinsed and drained

For serving: Crème fraîche, mascarpone or sour cream; grated lemon zest; Pesto; and/or grilled bread.

Combine the stock, oil, celery, zucchini and scallions in a large, deep skillet; season generously with salt and pepper. Cook over medium-high, stirring occasionally, for five minutes, until the zucchini is just starting to gloss and is no longer matte.  Add the beans and cook for about 3-5 minutes more and remove from heat.  You want the zucchini to be softened on the outside but with bite at its center, almost like al dente pasta.  If you’d like to make it brothier, warm 1/3 cup additional stock and add.  Season with salt and pepper.

Divide among shallow bowls. Top with a dollop of crème fraiche.  To this you can add pesto or lemon zest, and top with celery leaves. You might also add grilled bread.